When the beach humbles you
Days 1-4, Cape Reinga to Ahipara
Walking 100km down a beach is a wild time. It plays with your spirit and it tests your body’s limits. It’s both mundane and entertaining at the same time. Just as it feels like the waves are spitting at you, you spot a gracious kōtuku flying above and realise this is home to so many, and I am humbled to witness the life that surrounds me on Te Oneroa-a-Tohe, Ninety Mile Beach.
Dad and I have just completed our fist four days on Te Araroa, Aotearoa’s longest pathway, and are now hobbling around a beautiful holiday park in Ahipara, resting our bodies which have endured many aches and pains over these days. Good ones, though — the ones that remind you you’re alive and well. We have met many open-hearted, kind people already. We have sung many rounds to pass the time, and have had so much time to think about what to discard from our oversized packs.
Alright! From the top…
Full of beans at the trail head
DAY 1 - Te Rerenga Wairua to Twilight Beach (a leisurely 12km)
Greg from Ahipara picked us up from Kerikeri and drove us up to Te Rerenga Wairua in his shuttle. Along the way, he told us many stories of walkers he’d transported to the trail head, only to pick them up off the trail when they got down to Ahipara worse for wear, with blisters and way too heavy packs. Greg snapped a photo of us before we left down to the lighthouse, and wished us luck. After taking an obligatory photo at the yellow AA sign, we took our first steps down, down, down to Werahi Beach. The sky was regenschwanger (literally ‘rain pregnant’ in German) and sure enough, I soon felt the first raindrop hit my hand as we sat down for lunch. We scurried to pack up before our peanut butter hummus wraps became sodden, and then trod on in the heavy downpour. First amateur thru-hiker lesson learnt: don’t leave your canvas wallet in your hip pocket when it’s raining (who needs money on 4 days of beach walking?! And why a canvas wallet when you can use a dry bag?)
Luckily, the sky soon cleared as we made our way up overlooking the westernmost point of Te Ika a Maui, Cape Maria Van Diemen. The trail transformed into volcanic terrain, and we trekked on up to a viewpoint for our next rest, overlooking the lighthouse, coast, bush, volcanic rock and farmland all at once. The diversity of the trail’s terrain was already apparent.
Traversing over the headland with Werahi Beach in the distance
We then headed down through stunted shrubbery to Twilight Beach, where the realities of walking on soft-ish sand would soon set in. We found our way up to the ‘micro-camp’ and set up our tents for the night. Here, we met the only other person at the campsite and our first trail whānau member: Gabriela, a German woman from Wellington, walking solo to Bluff. I was surprised the campsite wasn’t busier — but then again, it’s not the easiest place to get to. The textbook sunset rounded off a diverse day with plenty to look forward to: three days to walk 90km along Te Oneroa-a-Tōhē/90 Mile Beach.
Sunset over Twilight Beach
DAY 2 - Twilight Beach to Maunganui Bluff (28km)
The first glimpse of the vast expanse that lay before us made us excited for the day ahead. After walking down a step set of steps and over a swamp, we got down to the beach. And so it began. We plodded along the whole day with one point of reference for time/space: a rock island in the distance. Dad and I played 20 questions to pass time and taught each other rounds to sing. The adrenaline was still pumping at this point as we both found our footing and stride. I taught Dad how to walk with walking poles, which was entertaining.
Dad, eager to get down to the dunes
After 9 hours on the move (with hourly breaks of course), we were very happy to make it to the campsite where we were greeted by two kids playing in the sand dunes, no older than 8. These kids, we soon found out, are part of a family of five walking Te Araroa at the moment. I’m definitely not the youngest on the trail this season - their youngest kid is 5 and according to her parents ‘only’ manages 20km per day. Huge respect for them!
Day 3 - Maunganui Bluff to Hukatere Lodge (30km)
Our porridge tasted extra good this morning. We packed up and on we went, knowing that walking 30km was indeed possible as proven the day before; our bodies were just a little bit sorer. Gabriela walked in front and soon became a distant spot, changing size throughout the day as we paused and then caught up at various points. The weather was pretty blah and there were no natural landmarks to watch pass (though there was little headwind, which I’ll always be thankful for). Twice, we were asked for directions by passers-by. Although we had no answers for them, I loved how we became the locals of the beach for a day. I also love how, without fault, everyone we pass is friendly and keen to chat. Cars on the beach honk and wave, everyone has a story to tell us about how their friend “got HORRIBLE blisters by the end of the beach section and could walk for a week” (not to brag, but I didn’t get a single one).
Our hourly breaks between walking became routine - walk inland a bit, sit, take shoes and socks off, eat, stretch, put shoes and socks on, and off we go again. This is what life is becoming: a set of simple tasks based around walking from point A to B and I’m liking these new rhythms. I still sometimes find myself thinking about the past and future worries, but mostly I’m present and focusing on the colours of each shell under my feet and trying to avoid the next dead pufferfish beside me.
At 5pm we arrived at the lodge and were greeted by our jubilant German host called Gabrielle (not our trail whānau Gabriela - popular name!) wearing hot pink glasses, hot pink cardigan and hot pink socks. She gave us an orange and offered to make some tea. We set up our tents and said hi to refreshingly rambunctious horse-lovers who we’d share the kitchen with for the night (one of whom later called me ‘the healthiest vegan’ she’d ever met lol). After 3 days of not having a ‘roof’ over our heads, the kitchen offered welcome comfort. So did the hot shower.
Gives you an idea of the monotony of beach walking…
Day 4 - Hukatere Lodge to Ahipara (31km)
I was greeted by some early morning rain, wind, and a five-legged baby wētā on my tent. We had the option of splitting this day up into two, but ended up walking the whole stretch in one go because we were on one long roll. By this point, my body had settled into a new norm of soreness, with my left hip and lower back the main culprit. I was happy how my body was holding up in general, though.
We continued onwards and were soon swept up by the northerlies blowing down the beach. Thank GOODNESS it wasn’t a southerly otherwise we would still be walking as I type. The only downside was sand. Sand everywhere. Sand sandwiches, sand rain jackets, sand in mouth. The forecasted thunderstorms never eventuated, and the sky soon cleared. Today was a god day. To describe our arms as ‘sun-kissed’ would be a slight euphemism but we live and learn. It helped to have a peninsula ahead of us to look towards. It soon became a familiar friend each step we took closer to it. The sand dunes etched in the land appeared, and soon enough, so did the mountain that characterises Ahipara.
The spring tide rolled in as we made our way up the boat ramp. The first thing I noticed about Ahipara (apart from the beautiful dogs on the beach and majestic mountain in the background) was the lush vegetation. It felt like we had stepped into paradise (which I mean we have and are in already) but I was blown away at the scents and colours of this place.
The Ahipara holiday park we’re staying at tonight is the chillest place ever - I’ve never been to such a tidy shared space before! Also - small world - the lovely person working here is a former student from a course I tutored earlier this year and gave us fresh vegetables to eat for dinner. That act of kindness epitomises what we’ve experienced so far.
Okay it’s way past my new hiker’s bed time (8pm) so I shall head bedwards (or air mattress-wards?) and update you when I get the next chance. We’re heading into Kaitaia tomorrow probably for a rest day, and then off to the Northland forests which only means two things - beautiful kauri trees and MUD!
Total km walked: 101
Total peanut butter eaten: 1/2 a jar
Currently reading: A Field Guide to Getting Lost but Rebecca Solnit (just preparing…)
Mood right now: thankful for my body’s adaptation skills and Dad’s company, and a little nervous around the decision-making over the next few days
P.S. sorry if the format of this post is weird or that my spelling’s off in places - first time blogging via phone and it’s clunky as!
Into the triple digits
